Sunday Morning Chowdown

Hellven Bar & Grill

2066 Kingsway (near Victoria Drive)

(604) 873-1010

I’ve never had much of an appreciation for Kingsway. It wreaks havoc on crosstown bike trips and, other than going to Famous Foods or Pho Bich Nga (RIP), I didn’t see much point in hanging out there. I’ve always thought of Kingsway as a long tendril of the worst of suburbia, stretching from Burnaby all the way to Main Street, bringing with it strip malls and used car dealerships; a thin, diagonal pseudopod draped across East Van.

“I don’t think the rents are going up around here,” my brunch companion said.

But who knows? Maybe I need to look a little deeper to find Kingsway’s charm? Maybe I just need to read a little more Michael Turner? Stable rents are a good thing. That’s certainly true for the Hellven Bar & Grill. A goth restaurant might have a tough go of it elsewhere in the city, but Kingsway, unlike most areas, can accommodate.

The “Hell”-ish elements of Hellven weren’t on display on the Sunday morning of my visit. Aside from the new paint job—red and black, natch—and nicer bathrooms, the space looked a lot like it did a few years ago when it was the Candy Bar, and held indie shows in the backroom. I don’t know what happened to the Candy Bar, but I was glad to see the space up and running again.

Our breakfasts were simple but delicious. Two eggs, bacon, toast and panfries will cost you $4.50. My eggs were perfectly poached, with yokes just runny enough, and went well with the rye toast. Their panfries were crispy and lightly spiced. Not bad for under five bucks.

For a couple of dollars more you can pick up a benny or an omelette. Want a breakfast wrap? The menu points out that it’s simply an omelette in a flour tortilla. It’s this lack of fussiness that makes Hellven a good, no frills breakfast place.

I can’t comment on the coffee, as I was feeling under the weather, and stuck with tea. But the attentive server was very good about refilling our hot water pot.

Like their predecessor, Hellven plans to open up the back room to shows, once they finish some renovations. For brunch or a show, this place makes a compelling case for a visit to Kingsway.

Price: $6.50 (including tea and tip)
Lineup: Zilch
Vegetarian options: A few
Soy milk: Sorry, didn’t ask