Sunday Morning Chowdown

Go Fish 


1504 W. First Ave. 


on Fisherman’s Wharf (west of Granville Island) 604-730-5040


Brunch doesn’t have to be about eggs, pancakes and coffee. While I tend to lean heavily on the breakfast side of brunch, every now and then I like to go for a lunch-focused brunch. I find it keeps my palette alert.


I was pretty excited when I first heard about Go Fish. The latest venture from the brains behind Bin 941 (I hear this is a big deal in Vancouver foodie circles. I’m not cool enough to know for myself), Go Fish, serves fresh, in-season seafood caught by local fishers. Its no-frills stand is located right on Fisherman’s Wharf, a five-minute walk west of Granville Island. The atmosphere is not that of your typical waterfront patio; beach chic it’s not. But being surrounded by fishing vessels and predatory seagulls is not without charm.


I’ve tried to hit Go Fish for dinner, but it closes at 6:30 p.m., so it can be tricky to get down there in time. This makes it perfect for an early afternoon brunch. Foiled before, this time I decided to double up and make the most of my visit. I ordered a fish “tacone” and fish & chips.


I fell in love with fish tacos when I was in San Diego last spring. The combination of corn tortilla, battered or grilled fish, cabbage and white sauce topped with cilantro and lime juice was astounding. I was eager to see what Go Fish would do with this classic.


The fish tacos I had eaten before were served open face. Go Fish’s “tacone” is rolled up in a cone (hence the name) and grilled. The filling was closer to that of a burrito, with white fish, tomato, cheese and a bunch of other stuff. It was hard to tell what was going on in there. It was spicy and delicious, and while I still prefer SoCal’s fish taco, I welcome Go Fish’s innovation.


For the fish & chips, I ordered one piece of halibut. The fish was cooked perfectly, flaking just so, and the batter was great in all of its greasy glory. My only criticism would be that there was a bit too much batter, with large globs of it forming in some of the nooks of the fillet. A lighter application of the batter would have made this a slightly less guilty pleasure.


Both the tacone and the fish & chips were accompanied by a cup of Go Fish’s amazing coleslaw. This isn’t the soggy, mayonnaise-laden slaw of your youth. Go Fish’s coleslaw has a bracing malty taste, which pairs extraordinarily with the fish. The coleslaw has such a hearty crunch, I thought it must contain nuts; however, I could not find a single one. How do they do it?


A head’s up: Go Fish can be extremely popular. It took half an hour in the blazing mid-day sun for my food to be served. They were busy and they make everything fresh, so it’s understandable, but know what you’re getting into. Believe me, it’ll be worth the wait.


duncan@toothanddagger.com